New Year, New Landers.

New Year brings about a time for thoughtful change. I want to lend this change to my sewing. I began a journal with this years new sewing. I want to be present and thoughtful in my sewing. Not in a hurry to get done, without thoroughly being present and enjoying the whole process. It will also provide a documented history of each make, which hopefully will be valuable for future makes.

I am sure my journaling will change as I move through this process. I am looking forward to that as well.

My first make this year is a pair of Landers. @truebias I believe this will be my third. I have a cropped black denim, a skinny leg denim and this pair is a bull denim from Cali Fabrics.

I first thought that this would be a longer cropped version. So I added 1 1/4″ to the length to play with while cutting them out.

I love a button fly. I used Heather Lou’s tutorial (closet Case Patterns).

When attaching the buttons, I like to ensure there will be enough slack for easy buttoning. To do this I place an old needle vertically under the button and leave it there will attaching the button. I use a horizontal pin to mark the placement I need. I used rolled up scotch tape to hold the button in place so that I can get it all under my pressed foot. Once attached, I thread the threads onto a needle and pull them to the back of the fabric and tie them off.

Following the idea from Johanna Lou of the Last Stitch – I used my coverstitch machine to make the belt loops. I have a Cover Pro 1000 CP by Janome and don’t use it often enough. I had to do a couple test runs to get the tension right, but it was a lot easier than I thought it would be.

I machine embroidered Landers 2019 on my waistband facing. The R embroidered on top of the E but I am Good with that. Lol.

Once I tried on my pants, I decided I liked the exact length they were, which meant I had no fabric for a hem! So I added 2 1/2″ to each leg to use as the hem.

They ended up the perfect length. So in all, these are 7 3/4″ longer than the original pattern. I really like the look of the long fuller leg.

So first make of the new year is complete. I thoroughly enjoyed the whole process and I believe that these are my favorite #landerpants yet!

Stay Happy

Keep Sewing

And if you can’t sew

Knit!

Vacation clothes

Hubby needed some shorts for our tropical getaway next month.  Make it Perfect Essential Shorts looked perfect.

I made s muslin which revealed these as bikini rise shorts. So for the real pair I added 3″ in the rise, 2.5″ in length,a cut on fly and enlarged the front pocket.

I also added side cargo pockets with a pleat, bifold back edge and Velcro closure on the flap. Hubby lives big usable pockets.

Back bifold edge and Velcro closure on the pocket flap.

It is hard to see the pockets on this print, so I highlighted them.

The waistband has a drawstring in the front and supposed to be two buttonholes. I used eyelets. They ripped out with first try. I made a reinforced patch to repair it and put in new eyelets.

Hubby loves them. I decided to make a Jessica Dress out of the rest of the material.

Fitting the bodice through the princess seams is the only challenging part. This is my second though, so I had the fit down already.

I didn’t have enough material for the facings, so they are some scrap navy linen. Nor did I have enough for the button plackets on the skirt. So I skipped them. I just interfaced 2″ along front edges of skirt and turned under instead of a placket. Matches the bodice better this way, as the bodice has no placket.

After gather skirt, I attached to bodice, wrapping the skirt button edge around bodice edge.

Makes for a clean finish. See video below to see how it turns out.

I rummaged through my buttons and luckily found 10. Just enough. All that is left are the buttonholes, buttons and hem.

Now, to go get busy!!!

Stay Happy

Keep sewing

And if you can’t sew

Go to the fair!

True Bias Lander Pants

I have always loved the wide leg sailor pants look. I love Jesse Kamms. I just can’t afford them. I have created my own pattern, Kelly Kamms, from a blend of Vogue and McCalls, but still I kept looking at all the Indie offerings of wide leg, high waisted pants.  I am not a fan of the camel toe or butt wedgie, so I decided to try the True Bias Lander Pants. Every version I saw looked great on the sewist! Not a camel or wedgie in site.   This pattern did not disappoint. The rise and crotch curve perfectly matched my TNT pants pattern.

Per the finished measurements, I cut out a size 10. The pattern has 1″ side seams for fitting. Genius. I was not sure if I was going with an exposed button fly or normal fly. I ended up doing normal zip due to lack of buttons that would work and laziness (didn’t want to get dressed and go shopping!)

I used the pattern placement guide for the back pockets and attached them early in process. I usually wait and attach last to ensure they end up where I want them. The pattern placement was perfect. I love these oversized pockets.

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I like to face my waist and with the outer fabric folding into the inner waistband, makes for a cleaner finish and less bulk where the button / button hole will be.

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I use ‘stitch witch’ to secure the facing in place while finishing the waistband. This holds it in place while doing your top stitching.

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This pattern is drafted for a height of 5’5″, so I added 4″ to pattern length. My inseam ended up 29″ with a 3″ deep hem. Ankle circumference is 21.5″. I love these pants. The high waist and oversized pockets give them a very 70’s vibe. So glad I bought this pattern!

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Machine embroidered a piece of leather, love itIMG_1321

This button came from my husbands grandmother’s stash. Older than me I am sure. Makes me smile.

Stay Happy. Keep Sewing. And if you can’t sew…. Enjoy what you can do!